I had a previous 2004, and somehow I had changed it so it will unlock all doors with one button press instead of 2.   I have another 2004 now, and can not for the life of me remember how I changed the unlock setting on the old one.  Internet searching has turned up nothing.   Holding lock + unlock on the fob for 3 secs doesn't change it.  Entering program mode by key on/off 8 times only programs the fobs to the car, doesn't change the unlock setting.  Can I do it in Forscan?  Can not find tables for where I would change it in the as-builts, and it is not an option in the modules otherwise.   Any ideas?  

Just testing

You are totally right, often tutorials complicate things when in practice it can be done more simply with the right reflexes. Your method is logical and effective, especially with your experience.

I had a similar problem after a jump start, and it was indeed the 12V battery that had taken a hit. It recharged badly despite the driving. I replaced it and everything is back in order, no more economy model

Hello, I had a question about my front pads on my 2012 Escape. I am a 37 year retired mechanic and believe in smarter not harder. I also replaced the rotors on the front. The pads were the original FOMOCO pads with 153k miles but were looking thin. I used my 18mm socket and removed the entire caliper bracket and caliper all at once. Removed old pads , replaced with new pads. Never had to rive that anti vibration spring steel piece at all, just replaced the pads. Then did the rotors and reassembled. Why do all the videos act like you have to remove the spring, then the caliper, then the caliper bracket, seems like a lot of extra steps. And extra tools needed. All I needed was the 18mm socket, pull handle,  and chanellocks to push piston back. Just wondering what others thought.  Thanks in advance. 

Can anyone with this tow package confirm that they have a 2" hitch receiver?

I know this sounds like a dumb question as I have been using a small  cargo trailer for years.  I measured it and it looks like it is 2" to me. We are the original owners of this vehicle and have been towing a cargo trailer just fine.  

But I'm researching something lighter for camping -- a hitch cargo carrier rather than the trailer.   And when I researched the Escape Class II tow package, the info returns that Class II two packages are 1 1/4".    Yet I measure the inside of the hitch and it measures 2 inches.  Am I measuring it wrong, or did the Class II tow package come with 2" hitch receivers

https://letstowthat.com/2018-ford-escape-tow-package/
https://www.ford.com/cmslibs/content/dam/brand_ford/en_us/brand/resources/general/pdf/guides/18RV&TT_Ford_Escape_Oct9.pdf

Presently at 140K trouble free miles. Cold starts and warmup driving light throttle city driving warmup before entering the highway a perfect running engine. Once in a while including ten highway miles at 60-70 mph everything is normal. Park and restart half and hr. later then having random engine misfires.  Another time the same driving loop again at operating temp having random misfires at speed dropping in Hp with a softer throttle pedal yet floor it accelerating hard, downshifting and up to 5,000 rpms pulling hard from 70 to 90 mph a strong healthy engine with zero misfires.  At traffic lights idling city driving in drive again the random missing like 2 to 3 times a second to once every 5 to 10 seconds randomly dropping cylinders a couple quick random cylinder misfires. With the AC on idling in drive you will get jerked around the idle rpms being correcting from the dropped misfire rpm's, only talking a app 75 to 150 rpm's rpm's variations. When running normal the rpm's are steady and solid even when the AC cuts on and off cycling. Disconnecting the EGR connector, the connector next to the EGR to the left of it and lower by the hard plastic PVC tube connector and at the outlet after the air filter the same random misfires. New COPS (Motor Craft not clones), plugs, crank trigger sensor, EGR valve as well the 90 degree pipe that pokes into the intake cleaned, still the same random misfiring issues. No CHECK ENGINE LIGHT or WRENCH LIGHT at the dash being the pisser then able to read a code and correct the issue. Engine coolant temp holds solid just below half gauge as when new.  The only thing I have not clean the air mass flow sensor as it looked dry and clean with the automotive "Endoscope". Mass meter spray can possibly mess up Mass Flow Meters. The sensor at the back of the intake manifold up top and horizontal pointing toward the firewall taking a dump on me?  ====================================================================Different year 2004 Escape V6 issue solved========================================================= The air mass flow sensor on the 2004 Escape had one end of a thin wire the thickness of a double hair with a tiny looking resistor bump in the middle, the end of one hair wire was floating around making random contact to one of the larger solid wire posts out to the connector of the sensor. It would read low resistance yet random contact caused by engine vibrations and temp swings.  

My 2024 Escape hybrid (non-plug in) is always going into battery saver mode, even in warmer weather and lots of stop and go driving, which should be recharging more.  Had a dead battery awhile back and had jumped by a service through Fordpass app.  Thought it originally might have been due to colder weather, but with a warmup is still doing it.  So interior lights never come on when opening a door and can't do any kind of remote checks or starts.  Could the battery or software been damaged by the jump?  

I replaced the coolant bypass adapter and performed bleeding as per instructions. No heat coming from the vents. Repeated the procedure , this time squeezing the upper radiator hose. A bit of improvement - got heat when RPMs are above 2,000. BTW, I installed a bleeder hose to from the adapter. So the next time I opened the expansion tank cap and added coolant through the bleed hose. the expansion tank overflowed, at which point I closed the pressure cap, and the bleeder hose overflowed. So I closed everything and drove car around. No improvement. I parked with car running and cracked opened the pressure cap - a few bubbles came out. closed everything and still no heat below 2,000 rpms. Am I missing something?  UPDATE - Drove the car on some errands - about 20 miles. The system finally drew coolant from the reservoir and I get heat as normal. So, the answer for bleeding is do whatever you can in your driveway, then drive around and it will fix itself. I love Ford....

Update: issue dissapeared and did not reoccur. As suspected, car needed just to relearn and recalibrate itself.